A Memorable Dessert Experience
Introduction
A few nights ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Palizzi Social Club, a century-old Italian establishment in South Philly, for an after-dinner drink. While enjoying our time at the bar, my friend suggested that we try Palizzi’s renowned dessert instead since we had already eaten. And so, we indulged in a slice of Mom’s Ricotta Cheese Pie: a delectable combination of rich, crumbly, tangy, salty, and sweet flavors, topped with an Amarena cherry. This dessert, complemented by the savory essence and creamy texture of cheese, served as the perfect finale to our evening.
The Unexpected Combination
Cheese and sugar, when paired together, create a delightful contrast that is often underappreciated. However, the announcement of Van Leeuwen’s limited-edition Kraft macaroni and cheese ice cream triggered a great deal of confusion and even revulsion from people. The reactions were fierce, as many couldn’t fathom the idea of cheese in ice cream. Hoda Kotb, grimacing on her show with Jenna Bush Hager, exclaimed, “Cheese ice cream? It’s just not my thing.” Stephen Colbert, on the other hand, admitted, “It’s happening.” Meanwhile, The Cut provocatively titled their article, “This Is What Greets You at the Gates of Hell.”
Embracing the Combination
It’s peculiar how the combination of cheese and sugar attracts such strong reactions. After all, why wouldn’t we love a rich and savory ingredient transformed into a sweet treat for dessert? Consider the beloved cheesecake, typically made with generous amounts of cream cheese, sugar, and eggs. Yet, we rarely hear complaints that cheesecake is the devil’s creation. There are also delightful ricotta pies, heavenly cannoli, and tangy cheese blintzes topped with fruit preserves. These desserts offer nothing but pure enjoyment. Have you ever started your day with a bowl of fruit and cottage cheese? Or indulged in baked brie with raspberry jam at a cocktail party? And let’s not forget the classic combination of apple pie with cheddar cheese. Across various cultures, cheese is a key ingredient in numerous desserts, proving that the richness of cheese pairs wonderfully with a touch of sweetness.
The Perfect Match: Ice Cream
Ice cream, with its dairy-forward composition, provides a perfect canvas for the addition of rich and sharp flavors like cheese. While some may find it too sugary or one-dimensional, the savory notes of cheese can balance out its potential cloying sweetness. In the Philippines, brands such as Magnolia and Selecta offer cheese and ube ice cream or cheese and corn ice cream, sometimes even with real cheese cubes mixed in. Mexican cuisine features recipes for queso fresco ice cream, highlighting the sharp and salty flavors of goat’s and cow’s milk. Even the American brand Cold Stone Creamery has a cheesecake variety made with cream cheese flavoring, whatever that means.
Mac and Cheese Ice Cream Recipe
Here are two ways to experience the unique delight of mac and cheese ice cream:
Classic Mac and Cheese Ice Cream
Yields approximately 1 quart
Ingredients:
- 1¾ cups heavy cream
- 1¼ cup whole milk
- ½ cup sugar
- ⅓ cup light corn syrup
- ⅛ teaspoon salt
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 packets of Kraft macaroni and cheese powder
Instructions:
- In a medium saucepan, combine heavy cream, whole milk, ¼ cup sugar, corn syrup, salt, and cheese powder. Heat over medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, whisking frequently until the milk is steaming or reaches a temperature of 175 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.
- Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining ¼ cup sugar in a heatproof bowl until well combined. Whisk until the mixture turns into a light-yellow color. Avoid preparing this step too early, as the sugar may cause the eggs to clump together and create irreversible lumps.
- Remove the hot cream mixture from heat and slowly pour about a third of it into the egg yolks, whisking constantly. This process, known as tempering, prevents the yolks from cooking and forming irregular lumps.
- Return the yolk mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until the temperature reaches 170 degrees or until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
- Immediately remove from heat and place the bowl in an ice bath to cool the mixture down, stirring occasionally. The sweetness will mellow as it cools.
- Once cooled, cover the mixture and refrigerate until cold.
- Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve and transfer it to an ice cream maker. Churn until the mixture reaches a soft-serve consistency, typically 20 to 25 minutes, depending on your machine. Avoid over-churning, as it can result in overly dense ice cream.
- Freeze the churned ice cream until firm, ideally overnight.
Herbed White Cheddar Mac and Cheese Ice Cream
Yields approximately 1 quart
Ingredients:
- 1¾ cups heavy cream
- 1¼ cups whole milk
- ½ cup sugar
- ⅓ cup light corn syrup
- ⅛ teaspoon salt
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 packets of Annie’s Shells & White Cheddar cheese powder
- 10 sprigs of fresh sage or 6 sprigs of fresh rosemary or ¼ cup of whole black peppercorns (optional)
Instructions:
- In a medium saucepan, combine heavy cream, whole milk, ¼ cup sugar, corn syrup, salt, cheese powder, and optional herbs or peppercorns. Heat over medium-high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, whisking frequently until the milk is steaming or reaches a temperature of 175 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.
- Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar in a heatproof bowl until well combined. Whisk until the mixture turns into a light-yellow color. Avoid preparing this step too early, as the sugar may cause the eggs to clump together and create irreversible lumps.
- Remove the hot cream mixture from heat and slowly pour about a third of it into the egg yolks, whisking constantly. This process, known as tempering, prevents the yolks from cooking and forming irregular lumps.
- Return the yolk mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until the temperature reaches 170 degrees or until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
- Immediately remove from heat and place the bowl in an ice bath, stirring occasionally to cool the mixture down.
- Cover the mixture and refrigerate until cold. If the flavor of the herbs hasn’t fully absorbed, taste the mixture and adjust by adding additional sprigs. Let it sit in the fridge for an additional 12 hours.
- Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve and transfer it to an ice cream maker. Churn until the mixture reaches a soft-serve consistency, typically 20 to 25 minutes, depending on your machine. Avoid over-churning, as it can result in overly dense ice cream.
- Freeze the churned ice cream until firm, ideally overnight.
Tips for Making Ice Cream
- Before transferring the churned ice cream to the freezer, ensure that the storage container, preferably made of glass or metal, has been pre-frozen. This prevents the ice cream from melting and becoming dense and hard.
- Strain the custard through a double-meshed sieve or a splatter screen to remove any lumps that may interfere with the churned consistency.
- You can prepare the custard base a day ahead and refrigerate it before churning in the ice cream machine to ensure proper chilling.
- To prevent freezer burn, cover the surface of the ice cream with wax or parchment paper to limit its exposure to air.
- Always follow the instructions provided by your ice cream machine’s manufacturer. If your machine requires a frozen bowl, ensure that it has been frozen overnight to maintain its cold temperature during the churning process.
Conclusion
The concept of mac and cheese ice cream may initially seem odd, especially if you imagine actual noodles within it (which there aren’t). However, I encourage you to reserve your judgment until you’ve actually tasted it. Just like cheesecake, ricotta pie, blintzes, and other cheese-infused desserts we savor on different occasions and in various places, mac and cheese ice cream can surprise you with its delightful harmony. So go ahead, give it a try!
Written by Ice Cream enthusiast Louiie Victa
