Ice Cream at the President’s House

Martha Washington and Thomas Jefferson both got the scoop on Dolley when it came to serving ice cream in the President’s official residence. Abigail Adams wrote that at Martha Washington’s Friday drawing rooms, “She gives Tea, Coffe, Cake, Lemonade & Ice Creams in summer.”3Abigail Adams to “my dear Sister,” July 27, 1790, quoted in Stewart Mitchell (editor) and Abigail Smith Adams, New Letters of Abigail Adams 1788-1801 (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1947), accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 23192. Martha was serving her ice creams in New York, still the capital of the United States when Abigail wrote in July 1790.

Jefferson also served ice cream at the President’s House, by then located in the new capital of Washington, DC. Jefferson is credited as the first American to write down an ice cream recipe, which survives in the Library of Congress. Jefferson likely obtained the directions from his French butler, Adrien Petit, whose name appears on a similar recipe written down by one of Jefferson’s granddaughters.4“Ice Cream,” The Thomas Jefferson Encyclopedia, accessed July 8, 2019

With presentation being everything, the ice cream sometimes made a splashy appearance on Jefferson’s table in a warm pastry crust. Catherine Mitchell, a Senator’s wife, wrote in 1806, “When the desert appear’d the baked ice cream attracted my attention. … It is ice cream inclosed in a cover of warm paste, which gives the appearance of having been just taken from the oven.”5Catherine Mitchill to Margaret Miller, April 8, 1806, Catherine Akerly Cock Mitchill family papers, MS 34819, Library of Congress, Washington, DC, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 23589. (That’s what fans of The Great British Baking Show would call a showstopper!)

Catherine Mitchill encountered ice cream again at the President’s House during Jefferson’s last New Year’s Day reception in 1809. In this instance, servers moved through the crowd with “refreshments [which] consisted of Cake, Wine, Punch and Ice cream. These were handed round very liberally, & those who did not get supplied to their liking could go to the side board and help themselves…”6Catherine Mitchill to Margaret Miller, January 11, 1809, Catherine Akerly Cock Mitchill family papers, Library of Congress, Washington, DC, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 23591.

Dolley Dishes It Up

Like her predecessors, Dolley served ice cream at the President’s House at both sit-down dinners and stand-up receptions. In November 1812, prominent Washingtonian Sarah Gales Seaton described how ice cream had replaced pastry at the Madison dinner table during “the dessert, at which by the way, no pastry is countenanced. Ice-creams, maccaroons, preserves and various cakes are placed on the table, which are removed for almonds, raisins, pecan-nuts, apples, pears, etc.”7Sarah Gales Seaton, diary entry for November 12, 1812, Unlocated, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 28297.

Ice cream figured prominently among the refreshments at Dolley’s signature social event, her Wednesday evening drawing room. Held nearly every week that Congress was in session, these events were often crowded enough to be called a “squeeze.” Scottish visitor Alexander Dick attended one of the early drawing rooms in June 1809 and reported that “tea Coffee, Ice Creams Cakes & refreshments were handed round which was all the entertainment.”8Alexander Dick, Journal Entry, 7 June 1809, Alexander Dick Journal, 1806-1809, MS 4528, Special Collections, University of Virginia Library, Charlottesville, Virginia, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 23275.

Ice cream also appeared at the traditional New Year’s Day receptions during the Madison administration. Catherine Mitchell commented in January 1811, “When the Ice cream and other dainties were brought in those who wish’d to get a taste were obliged to keep a sharp look out. In such a crowd, it was almost impossible for the Servants to get near every one, and if they attempted it, the good things would all slip away before they succeeded.”9Catherine Mitchill to Margaret Miller, January 2, 1811, Catherine Akerly Cock Mitchill family papers, Library of Congress, Washington, DC, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 23593. Sarah Gales Seaton attended the 1814 New Year’s reception and noted “partaking of some ice-creams and a glass of Madeira, shaking hands with the President and tendering our good wishes.”10Sarah Gales Seaton, diary entry for January 2, 1814, Unlocated, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 28296.

A Fork in the Paper Trail

While it might not be surprising that visitors to the President’s House would leave written mentions of ice cream in their letters and diaries, the ice cream paper trail also takes an unexpected turn through an obscure category of government documents. The Miscellaneous Treasury Accounts include invoices from merchants and craftsmen who were paid from taxpayer funds for everything the President’s House required: from elegant sofas and draperies, to necessary repairs for drains and clocks. And in some instances these suppliers were providing utensils for making and serving ice cream.11Ellen Donald, The Madison Presidency Miscellaneous Treasury Accounts: How Can They Enhance the Interpretation of Montpelier?, July 2011, Montpelier Research Files, Montpelier Foundation, Orange, Virginia, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 40946.

From the Miscellaneous Treasury Accounts, we learn that the Madison’s chef and butler Michel Kromenacker spent $8.00 in June 1810 for “3 Ice cream Moulds and ladles and repairing.”12Michel Kromenacker, February 8, 1810 – July 1810 (unbound packet 1:13), box 114, RG 217; Entry A-1 347, Miscellaneous Treasury Accounts, United States National Archives and Records Administration, Washington, DC, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 27469. In 1812 George Kellenburger submitted invoices for $4.00 for four ice cream baskets or buckets13George Kellenburger, January 1, 1812 (packet [A]: 9), RG 217, Entry A1-347, Miscellaneous Treasury Accounts, United States National Archives and Records Administration, Washington, DC, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 32773.(Kellenburger’s handwriting leaves something to be desired), and for $5.00 for four ice cream tubs.14George Kellenberger, December 27, 1812 (packet [A]: 3), RG 217, Entry A1-347, Miscellaneous Treasury Accounts, United States National Archives and Records Administration, Washington, DC, accessed July 8, 2019, Montpelier Research Database, MRD-S 32778.